From SPF to skin color, sunscreen’s effectiveness is complicated

Sunscreen is a highly technical material that must balance competing chemical requirements like being non-toxic, non-greasy, water-resistant, and protective.

The FDA approved bemotrizinol, the first new active sunscreen ingredient in over 25 years, which offers broader UV protection, lasts longer, and absorbs less into the skin than existing U.S. options.

The approval allows the U.S. to catch up with the rest of the world regarding modern sunscreens.

The U.S. regulates sunscreen exclusively as an over-the-counter drug rather than a cosmetic, creating a lengthy approval process.

The lengthy U.S. regulatory process has prevented access to the same filters available in international markets.

An Australian consumer watchdog found 16 of 20 widely available sunscreens fell short of their advertised SPF ratings.

SPF testing is subjective and inconsistent, often yielding different results for the same formulation across labs.

The Nambour Trial is the only fully powered randomized study linking sunscreen use to skin cancer outcomes.

The Nambour Trial found sunscreen use reduced squamous cell carcinoma rates by almost 40% and also reduced melanoma.

There is no data to support the use of sunscreen for cancer prevention in people of color.

The Nambour Trial results cannot necessarily be extrapolated to people of color.

People of color should still use sunscreen to protect against hyperpigmentation, sunburn, and non-melanoma cancers.

Australian public health authorities have adopted tiered sun protection advice based on skin type.

Crafting targeted public health strategies that are effective yet differentiated is new and challenging territory.

Sunscreen is imperfect and should be the last line of defense in a sun protection strategy.